By Joe Hilbers
What does it take for a restaurant to prosper for 40 years? This is the question we asked Ralph and Barbara Wood about their Rancho Palos Verdes restaurant named The Admiral Risty. For few indeed are restaurants that enjoy such a long life.
For the Admiral Risty it is a combination of a breathtaking location, the experience of Ralph Wood, who has spent a lifetime in the food industry, and the outstanding quality of the food and the service staff headed by his partner and General Manager Wayne Judah. Wayne has been with the Admiral Risty since 1972 and it is not uncommon for other members of the staff to have been with the restaurant from 25 to 30 years. An added ingredient is how the area around the restaurant has tripled in growth over those 40 years.
Equally important is how The Admiral Risty has kept up with the times over those four decades. The restaurant has been remodeled five times over the years. Its seating has expanded from 90 to 135 people with another 45 for the bar and lounge. And there is the Captain's Quarters, with seating of 40 for special groups and parties.
Perhaps most important of all is that this restaurant represents value. There is that fantastic view of the ocean along the most scenic portion of the Southern California coast line. And the owners have always been quick with innovations. The restaurant opened with an exhibition kitchen, long before it became generally popular and the lounge has offered live entertainment from local musicians for over two decades.
The menu has always offered an excellent selection of both seafood and meat entrees. Presently some 65 per cent of the restaurant orders are for fresh seafood that arrives daily from almost everywhere in the world. Risty's Flank Steak is famous and year after year continues to be the most popular meat order. The menu changes daily for fresh fish selections often with favorites like Mahi Mahi, Salmon, Ahi, Halibut, Sea Bass and Swordfish.
The menu also shows a Cioppino that has earned awards in contests with other restaurants. Also there are a variety of seafoods, shrimp, scallops or fresh fish served with Linguini. Again a choice here of three different sauces--red, cream and sauteed with sun-dried tomatoes, basil and garlic.
Besides the famed Flank steak there is New Yorks, Filet Mignon, Pepper New York and rack of lamb. A choice of chicken dishes are also shown.
Executive chef Demetrius Crawford offers his fish entrees with four different preparations, broiled, poached, grilled and Cajun. Our recent dinner included a bowl of the New England clam chowder, a house specialty, the Mahi Mahi, which we chose to have grilled, arrived with light breading, topped with toasted almonds and lemon butter sauce. Also on the platter was rice pilaf and fresh steamed asparagus, slightly au dente. At least two types of fresh baked bread, served warm, are on the table, all made on the premises.
I dined with my hosts. Barbara 'Risty' Wood ordered the sea bass broiled, which came basted in butter and served with lemon and fruit salsa. And yes the Admiral Risty is named for Barbara. Ralph Wood ordered the classic Flank Steak which is marinated with a special sauce including ginger, honey and garlic.
The restaurant has a very large wine list mostly from California but some imports from Europe and Australia as well. Many of the wines are available by the glass. Ralph Wood told me that almost 75 per cent of the restaurant's diners order wine with their dinner. Our wine was Guenoc Estate Sauvignon Blanc.
Like the breads desserts are made on premise. Barbara and I succumbed to the German chocolate cake while Ralph wisely refrained from dessert. Portions are generous at the restaurant and all three of us left with take home boxes for another time.
The official festivities celebrating the 40th anniversary will open on October 10 when all diners will be invited to enjoy the cutting of the anniversary cake. Later a 'Founder's Challenge' contest with Ralph Wood challenging everyone to guess the number of dinners served at The Admiral Risty since opening day on October 10, 1966. The entrant coming closest to the actual number of dinners served will win a dinner party for eight.
Throughout the 40 years The Admiral Risty Restaurant has offered support for many community endeavors including swimming pools for two local high schools as well as organizations like the Hospice foundation and Cabrillo Marine Aquarium. To date these donations have totaled almost $60,000.
As we left the restaurant Partner Wayne Judah was carefully decanting a customer's bottle of a prized older vintage wine into a beautiful ship's decanter for serving. Another telling example of how a restaurant lasts forty years and becomes a legend in its own time.,
The Admiral Risty, as it continues into its forty first year, is located at 31250 Palos Verdes Drive West at Hawthorne Boulevard, Rancho Palos Verdes. The restaurant is open for dinner seven nights a week from 5 p.m. with a Sunday brunch as well. Brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Live entertainment is offered in the lounge Wednesday through Sunday nights. For reservations call 310 377-0050.
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