By Joe Hilbers
Fine dining, does it still exist in a small, intimate quiet setting with well dressed customers, an attentive staff, tableside service, and a classic French cuisine?
Surprisingly it does at a restaurant called Le Sanglier located in the San Fernando Valley. And just as surprising is the fact that it has been doing all the above for 31 years at the same location with the same owner, Alain Cuny. Surely something of a record in an area where restaurants come and go with ever increasing frequency.
Over the years customers have come to love the decor and ambiance of a countryside French Inn with open beams and etched glass decorations.
But even legendry restaurants like Le Sanglier do make changes. Now Gil Pique has come aboard as co-owner and tableside service includes flaming dishes with a unique Flambe Trolley. And the bar, always well stocked, now includes row on row of cognacs and specialty tequilas.
As always our most recent visit to Le Sanglier was a special event. Our party of four started with appetizers that included Les Escargots de Bourgogne, a mixed four season salad with grilled scallops and smoked salmon with jumbo asparagus and capers, onions and sour cream.
This restaurant has an outstanding wine list of both French and California vintages but this writer went to his own cellar for our wines that evening.
With the appetizers we had a 1997 L'Ormarins Chardonnay from the Franschholk Valley in South Africa. Alain Cuny joined us for a glass and we all agreed that it was in a French style Montrachet totally different from the California chardonnays we are accustomed to. Crisp, almost steely with rich flavors. A perfect match to our appetizers.
Our waiter was Jose Valdez who has been serving happy customers at the restaurant for 28 years with attentive caring and impeccable manners.
Our entrees that evening included the Les Coquilles St. Jacques en Croute and from the blackboard menu of nightly specialties a Roast Duck Montmorency and Sandabs sauteed meuniere. The duck was flambed tableside by our Host Gil Pique.
With these entrees our wine was a 1988 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. It opened beautifully with a mellow softness in aroma and an almost velvet finish on the palate.
For dessert we could not resist the crepes suzette prepared tableside and flambed with cognac and an orange sauce. All in all a totally classic dining experience and one not easily found in most of today's restaurants, even the best ones.
Le Sanglier is located at 5522 Crebs Avenue, just a step from Ventura Blvd., in Tarzana and is open for dinner only six nights a week from 5:30 p.m., closed Mondays. For reservations call 818 345-0470.
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