"Los Angeles--Biltmore tradition of fine dining continues at Smeraldi's"


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We always enjoy a visit to the Millennium Biltmore Hotel in downtown Los Angeles. Its ambiance and decor shows the best of an earlier era. Also for us it is filled with memories of the many conventions and events we attended there through the years as a news reporter.

Our most recent visit was to dine at Smeraldi's, the hotel's main dining room. Like so much of the hotel there is history in the name. Smeraldi was the famous artist who did much of the artwork when the hotel was originally built.

This evening we settled in for some fine dining and were not disappointed. We chatted briefly with Christopher Quek, food and beverage manager, and then with Hotel Manager Klaus Doeling. Mr. Quek informed us that the menu would soon see some changing with more accent on California styled cuisine and Asian entrees. However the Italian accented Pastas and Pizzas will remain.

We opened with the fried Monterey Bay calamari, tastefully breaded and presented with lemons, sun dried tomato Aioli and Italian Parsley. Other tempting selections included baked Gnocchi and smoked ham or Alaskan rock crab cake. We wisely refrained for cleaning this dish since we knew of what was to come.

That was the 12 ounce thick cut Veal Chop. From a choice of five different sauces we selected the Woodland mushroom Demi-Glace. Also gracing the plate were fresh asparagus, baby carrots and whipped garlic potatoes.

Another time we promised to try the Sicilian Penne with roasted eggplant and bufala mozzarella or perhaps the deep water sea bass with a choice of three flavored butters.

As good as the food was our server, Tee Manirath, who has been with the Biltmore for 26 years. With Tee we talked about both present and past glories of the Hotel. With an elegantly served tea service we ordered the warm fig and pear Bread Pudding with honey gelato cream and a scoop of ice cream for our dessert. It was just about the best bread pudding we could ever remember.

This evening, with a long drive on a rainy night before us, we skipped the alcoholic beverages. We however noted the excellent wine list and some of the featured vintages listed by the glass.

These included a Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, Barossa Valley Chardonnay from Australia and Talus Pinot Grigio from California. Among the reds a Blackstone Merlot, Turner Road Cabernet Sauvignon and a Barossa Valley Shiraz.

As the Hotel's premier dining room Smeraldi's is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. The Millennium Biltmore Hotel is located at 506 South Grand Avenue in the heart of downtown Los Angeles. Parking is validated for dining patrons. Reservations 866 866-8086.

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Last Update:6/15/05

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