Costa Mesa--Fine dining at a mall? Yes Indeed at Nello Cucina


.. By Raymonde Lorgeou Carr

Nello Cucina restaurant is located at the entrance of the South Coast plaza mall on the Bear street side, but it is definitely not your average mall eatery.

At Nello's you will find white table clothes and napkins, charming gazebo, patio, inviting bar and lounge, immaculate open kitchen and a wonderful well priced menu. It is an Italian restaurant offering the Mediterranean Cuisine that has become so popular for its health benefits.

Let us walk you through the menu of Nello Cucina: Insalata di Pollo Autunnale--grilled chicken breast, curly endive, beets, apples, roasted walnuts, yogurt Gorgonzola dressing: Antispasto Salad-- romaine lettuce, julienne of Italian cured meats, sundried tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, hardboiled egg and kalamata olives: Carpaccio-- thinly sliced raw beef, grana, capers, olive oil, lemon and arugula, a perfect lunch after a morning of shopping.

For dinner the sky is the limit: Veal scaloppini, Cioppino: shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, calamari in a light white wine saffron sauce. Our favorite is the “ veal Osso Buco”: braised veal shank served over saffron risotto. We had it and it was delicious. When discovering a new Italian restaurant we always taste the Carpaccio and the veal Osso Buco. We are very particular about these two specialties and yes; Nello Cucina passed the test with flying colors. We also recommend the Beef Short Ribs--braised boneless beef short ribs over grilled polenta and the Pork Chop grilled and topped with caramelized onions and a balsamic reduction sauce.

The day we visited the restaurant the fish of the day was Swordfish served with: a generous portion of grilled fish with fresh baby carrots and green beans. This was the selection of my dining companion and he insisted that I try the vegetables which were cooked to perfection, not almost raw like it appears to be currently fashionable , but tender without being overcooked. Of course, the restaurant offers several pasta dishes and gourmet pizza.

Franco Vessia took over the management of Nello Cucina in Spring 2011. Franco is Italian born and has owned several successful restaurants in California. He is very aware of the new trends of American demands and needs. His changes include gluten free pasta. Soon the calories counts will be on the menu as well. His new menu includes pizza, but they are loaded with veggies and herbs and if you want to go one hundred per cent vegan and you do not find what you want on the menu, ask for it. The management, the chef and wait staff are very accommodating. They will go out of their way to please you.

So, why is such a fine restaurant located in a mall? Nello Cucina is part of a group of four restaurants owned by Antonio Gagnolo. You may not recognize his name, but you certainly are familiar with his five star award winning restaurant Antonello, long established in South Coast Village, right across from the South Plaza mall.

Even with the help of fine professionals like Franco Vessia, Andrew Mendoza, Dennis Silva, and Joe Dib, overlooking the operation of four restaurants is a very demanding business. The proximity of the restaurants is a big plus.

Nello Cucina, Quatro Cafe, and Antonello Expresso Bar are all located in the South Coast Plaza mall. Antonello, the upscale restaurant of the group is right across from the mall. The four restaurants are all walking distance from each other and together pretty much cover all the culinary needs of the South Coast shopping and entertaining area. If you crave a chocolate croissant, a palmier, a pain aux raisins with a foamy expresso there is no better place than Antonello Expresso Bar.

Quartro Cafe is very welcoming and offers a large variety of appetizers, salads, pizza, pasta, pannini as well as a few more sophisticated entrées if this is what you are in the mood for. The décor is simpler than Nello Cucina's since it is designed for a quicker meal. Each location has its own character and applies to different circumstances and times of the day, but the quality is a constant factor.

Over the years the Antonello Restaurant Group has selected fine Italian wines, gourmet olive oils and developed tasty sauces, which carry the “Antonello “ label. You must try them. They can be purchased at the restaurant’s sites.

Nello Cuccina is located at 3333 Bear Street, Costa Mesa Ca 92626. Phone (714) 540 3365: Fax (714) 540 2285: Website www.nellocucina.com. Hours are Monday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 9:30 p,m. and Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

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